I never intended to learn how to surf in my mid-30s. I definitely didn’t intend to become completely obsessed by surfing, surf theory, surf culture, surf contests, surf forecasts, the pro tour…but I can’t seem to help myself now. I am hooked.
|Overlooking Playa Pelada in Nosara, Costa Rica|
It happened inadvertently. When Ed and I were looking for ideas for a vacation for just the two of us, we wanted to go somewhere we hadn’t been before and we wanted to do something active – something that we wouldn’t be able to do with the kids. We settled on Costa Rica and were originally going to do the typical jungle-hike thing. But everyone kept talking about the surfing in Costa Rica. While I’ve always been fascinated by surfing, I was beyond surprised when Ed suggested going to surf camp. What started off as “just a vacation” turned out to be one of the best vacations. Maybe it was the thrill of learning something entirely new in your 30s. Maybe it was immersing myself in a lifestyle that’s so completely different from the one I lead at home – my only responsibilities being to learn, surf, yoga, eat well and hang out with new friends. Whatever it was, I returned home craving more.
When I got home, I searched for websites and blogs and hunted for sources about surf theory so that I could continue learning. But I couldn’t find anything that I could relate to. Most of the information out there assumed a certain level of knowledge and/or experience and didn’t address basic questions or the trials and tribulations of a beginner surfer.
But was it realistic to think that I was going to continue surfing while living in New York City, working and raising two young boys with my husband Ed? It’s a lot easier to think that the answer is yes when you’re hanging out in the jungle of Costa Rica with no work or family responsibilities. But back home? Was it possible? That’s what I wanted to figure out. Not just whether I would continue to surf but whether I would be able to incorporate the lessons I learned and the perspective I gained into my everyday life.