I’ve gone surfing this week – literally and figuratively. I’m taking some time to hang out with my family while my boys are on spring break. We’ve retreated to the jungle to play on the beach in Costa Rica. We traveled back to the spot where Ed and I were first hooked on surfing. It really is one of my favorite spots ever.
It’s fun to be back in the water even though my fear of the ocean still rises up in my body as I start to make my way out into the water. But it’s mostly manageable and I can keep it at bay.
There’s a swell coming in early this week so the waves will get bigger. I’m not sure how much I’ll make it out the back but I’m happy to play in the whitewater and practice. After all, I’ve come to recognize that yes, I’m getting older and I don’t recover as quickly as I used to and yes, I might have to modify my expectations so that I can still have fun, catch some waves and not get hurt.
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